Keeping traditional vegetables alive and well.

by Rebecca Horwitz

The gardening season is over, but hardy root vegetable crops grown in the fall can help keep us full throughout the winter, as you’ll see when visiting one of our local winter farmers’ markets. Root vegetables include carrots, potatoes, radishes, beets, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and sweet potatoes (also called yams, but aren’t really). Our pioneer ancestors knew how to grow, store, and use these hardy vegetables and were far more familiar with them than most of us are today. I mean, everyone knows what to do with a potato, but when’s the last time you cooked a rutabaga or turnip—and your kids gladly ate it?

To make things more interesting, you can buy seeds for heirloom root vegetables that come in surprising colors. How about “albino beets,” “black Spanish radishes,” or “cosmic purple carrots”? These are just a few of the varieties available in the All-Heirloom Root Vegetable Collection, from the Local Harvest website, www.localharvest.org. Closer to home, the Hudson Valley Seed Library offers many interesting and unusual seed varieties that are all heirloom, such as the new Brilliant Beet Blend, which comes in one of their famous Art Packs. Local artists design the seed packets, resulting in something you want to frame, not throw out. www.seedlibrary.org

But what is an heirloom seed and why do they matter? An heirloom seed produces a plant that was once commonly grown during earlier eras of human history, but which is not used in modern industrial-style agriculture. For this reason, many traditional varieties of fruits and vegetables have all but disappeared from the modern dinner table. We now are familiar with only a few kinds of potatoes, yet there are actually many more heirloom varieties.

Many heirloom vegetables have kept their traits through open pollination. Today, because of groups like Seed Savers and the Hudson Valley Seed Library, it is possible to join the trend of bringing back some of these heritage seeds into our own gardens. We are actually preserving our agricultural heritage, instead of letting agribusiness decide which kind of hybrids we can have. And, rest assured, these seeds are certainly not GMOs! The Hudson Valley Seed Library proudly states on their website: “At the same time as more and more seed sources are gobbled up by these multi-national corporations, we’re busy collecting, preserving, growing, offering, and celebrating seeds in all their diversity.”

Looking to try something a bit more unusual in the root vegetable world? Jicama is a starchy tuber that originates in North America, and is better known in Mexico than the US. It is said that jicama is most popular in China. Crunchy and mild, it can be used as a substitute for water chestnuts or bamboo shoots in a salad or stir-fry. According to another source, it makes “a crisp and delicious low calorie peel-and-eat snack.” Jicama thrives in hot climates, so it’s not always easy to find in our area, but I have seen it in bodegas and some grocery stores.

I will now share with you two of my favorite ways to prepare root vegetables. The first is, very simply, Roasted Root Veggies. Take three or four vegetables—some small potatoes, a turnip, a couple of carrots, and maybe a beet—and wash and peel them. Cut them up into fairly evenly sized pieces and put into a mixing bowl. Clip a few sprigs of rosemary—fresh is much more flavorful—and chop it up a bit, removing the woody stems. Cover the vegetables with the rosemary, salt, pepper, and a few tablespoons of oil, and spread them out on a baking tray. Roast for half an hour or so until a fork easily pierces them. After they are done roasting, and have cooled a bit, you may wish to add feta cheese and some chopped walnuts. They will make a lovely accompaniment to your dinner, or maybe even the main course.

Modern homesteading movement grows from desire, not need.

by Tod Westlake

There's a great scene in the Ron Howard film Far and Away, in which the protagonist and his wife become part of the great Oklahoma land rush. Sitting in their covered wagons and buckboards, a large group of settlers is literally poised as if they are about to start a race, only in this case the prize will be the best chuck of arable land—assuming they can get there "sooner" then anyone else. When the time comes, these settlers take off as if their lives depend upon it. And, as history will attest, in many cases it did. Well over a century later, the name "sooner" still resonates with Oklahomans (especially as applied to college football), as it's a bittersweet reminder of the state's pioneering spirit.

The scene is a familiar trope when it comes to how we envision the homesteader, those gritty and determined individuals who carved a new life out of the raw materials of the West. And while the government is no longer giving away free land, homesteading remains a strong force, especially among those of us who are working toward creating a sustainable way of life. Modern homesteading incorporates the values of self-sufficiency and getting back to the land, while at the same time working to build community and share ideas and resources. Perhaps more importantly, it's a way in which our communities can take control of their own destiny.

So, what does modern homesteading consist of? Let's take a look at some of the simple things we already do that would fall under this rubric. For example, the composting of our organic waste has a number of different benefits. We reduce the amount of refuse we put into the waste stream, while at the same time our gardens benefit from all of that lovely humus the process creates. Composting turns detritus into a desirable commodity.

Municipalities are even getting into the act. The EPA estimates that as much as 65 percent of yard trimmings and leaves are being composted annually. But approximately 60 million tons of organic waste still ends up in landfills every year. This is an area in which many of us as individuals can make a difference. Even if you're not into gardening yourself, you likely have a neighbor nearby who would benefit from the composting you do. If this person raises vegetables, then a nice quid pro quo might be possible. Your neighbor gets your compost, and you get some fresh veggies during the season. And the community-building aspect is the healthy byproduct of the endeavor.

Another way to become more self-sufficient, and a practice many people are returning to, is the raising of poultry, chickens in particular. If this is something you've been thinking about doing, the first thing you should do is check with your municipality regarding zoning restrictions. You can't raise chickens, even if it's just a few birds, anywhere you like. Some municipalities, and even a few cities, however, are starting to wake up to the fact that many people are interested in having the fresh eggs every day, thus some of these restrictions are being loosened. If you live in the right zone, however, this is something you might want to consider. Fresh eggs, and later fresh poultry, are the payoff. And all that chicken waste—the droppings, bedding, etc.—can be added to your other compost, thereby helping to boost its nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium content.

From an historical perspective, it's interesting to note that the back-to-the-land movement of the mid-20th century was inspired not by desire, but by necessity. One of the proponents and active members of this movement was agrarian theorist and native New Yorker Ralph Borsodi. Having been born and raised in Manhattan, Borsodi became fascinated by the idea of agrarian, self-sufficient communities. He even went so far as to establish a School of Living in Rockland County that was instrumental in helping thousands of people to learn how to survive during the Great Depression. Borsodi was also one of the earlier proponents of local currency. In the mid-‘70s, he established a currency in the town of Exeter, New Hampshire, even going so far as to mint half-ounce and one-once silver coins called "Globes".

With such a proud local history when it comes to homesteading, it only makes sense that the Hudson Valley and its local environs should once again be in the vanguard of this timeless movement. With the weak economy likely to continue for some time, applying the principles of homesteading to your own life is one small way in which you can retake control. So, raise your chickens. Can your veggies. And compost, compost, compost. In the long run, you, and the planet, will be much happier for it. 

by Maria Reidelbach

If you think we upstaters have it rough in the winter, check out Sweden. It's got the same latitude as Nova Scotia, and parts of Sweden are so cold that they're frozen from September through May. The first day of winter has a mere six hours of sun. Swedes really need to party during the darkest days, and it's no wonder that they have created fabulous winter holiday traditions.

I'm lucky to have a Swedish-American friend, Bibi Farber, who grew up there with her mother. Every year Bibi celebrates the holiday season at her Kerhonkson cottage with at least one party featuring delicious Swedish dishes: creamed potatoes, beets, gravlax, and sweet-and-sour cabbage. She also serves glögg, a hot spiced wine that is a wonderful antidote to cold and darkness. She uses pretty white demitasse encircled in red hearts that she inherited from her mother. I don't know which is more warming, the glögg or Bibi's beautiful smile as she pours and passes the cups.

To bring a little of the Swedish spirit to your holiday celebrations, here are a couple of fun and interesting recipes. Despite their Scandinavian origins, I've added local twists.

Harold McGee's Cured Salmon with Pine Needle

Cured salmon, also called gravlax or lox, is easy to make; you just need a little lead time to let the salt and sugar do their work. The great food science and history authority Harold McGee suggests the following variation on traditional Swedish gravlax with dill by subbing pine. It works beautifully as a resiny aromatic—a delicious counterpoint to the richness of the salmon. And I'm told by Kevin Best, an avid fly-fisherman from New Paltz, that our local trout, whose season is just ending, would be wonderful served this way, too. It would be a treat to try it!

1 to 2 lbs. center cut salmon filet

6 Tbs. kosher salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 tsp. coarsely ground pepper

2 Tbs. vodka, aquavit, grappa, or other strong white spirit, optional

1 1/2 cups pine needles (any type of pine), chopped

Dry the filet and cut it in two. Mix the salt, sugar, pepper and pine needles. Sprinkle 1/3 in the bottom of a baking dish. Lay in the filet, skin side down. Sprinkle the rest of the mixture on top. Cover and refrigerate. Let cure for at least 24 hours for thinner pieces, up to 72 hours for very large pieces, turning and basting a couple of times a day. When the texture has become firmer throughout, remove from the dish and rinse off the pine needles, dry and serve in very thin slices with mustard sauce on rye crackers or thin slices of brown, white or rye bread.

Four-star tip: Chef John Novi, from the DePuy Canal House, told me that you can treat salmon this way for a shorter time period and then sauté it, with extraordinary results.

Mustard Sauce

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 Tbs. sugar

2 Tbs. white wine vinegar

1/3 cup olive oil

Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl.

Bibi's Grandma's Glögg

Bibi says, “All the booze can be the least expensive variety and the measurements are approximate.”

2 bottles of burgundy or other hearty red wine (New York state, of course)

1/4 cup brandy, or more to taste

1/4 cup vodka, or more to taste

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup sugar, or more to taste

1/2 cup honey, or more to taste

1 cinnamon stick

3-4 cloves

1-2 cardamom pods

Peel of half an orange

1 cup blanched almonds*

*To blanch almonds, bring a couple cups of water to a boil, add the almonds and let boil for about two minutes. Drain and let them cool and the skins slide off easily. Bibi warns, “Watch out as they may fly around the room when you squeeze them!” Maria says, “Best to do this before you start drinking glögg!”

Warm all ingredients except almonds together in a pot. Don't let it boil even for a second or the alcohol will evaporate. Put an almond or two into each cup and fill with hot glögg, using a ladle.

Skål!

Good links:

Harold McGee—he makes food science and history fascinating: www.curiouscook.com

Bibi Farber's NextWorld TV—great videos about sustainability: www.nextworldtv.com

Shawangunk Wine Trail—a fun way to discover local wineries: www.shawangunkwinetrail.com

John Novi's DePuy Canal House—the Hudson Valley's only 4-star restaurant: www.depuy.com

Maria Reidelbach is the proprietress of Homegrown Mini-Golf on Kelder's Farm, the only miniature golf course with edible landscaping (m@mariareidelbach.com).

by Phoenix Trent

The Hudson Valley is a bounty of fresh produce throughout the calendar year, but the diverse offerings that the summer brings truly can’t be beat. Summer squash is a gem of the warm months; its versatility allows for endless tantalizing and delicious preparations. A nutritious staple of the Amerindians for centuries, summer squash makes a great addition to a summer feast.

A more delicate and soft-shelled squash variety with thin edible skin and seeds, it has a tender flesh that requires only a short cooking time. Low in calories, and high in vitamin C and fiber, summer squash are often picked immature and eaten within a short period of time since they are very perishable. Take advantage of this short window of summer squashy goodness by whipping up a delicious and nutritious stuffed summer squash as the entrée, or serve it cold with drizzled olive oil, chopped walnuts, and crumbled goat cheese for a delicate and fresh starter.

Stuffed Summer Squash

• 4 long summer squash

• A few pinches salt and pepper

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 shallot, finely chopped

• 1 stalk celery, chopped

• 1 carrot, grated

• 4 Italian sausages removed from casing (Fleisher’s in Kingston has some great options when it comes to the world of fresh meat)

• 1/2 cup ricotta cheese

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1/4 cup water (for the pan)

Home Cooking brings together family and friends, mends any tiff, and ads an extra kick of goodness to life. A meal featuring the oh-so-wonderful squash is sure to please, and turn simple sustenance into a work of love and art. Our bodies crave the essential vitamins and nutrients that this fruit of our valley has inside. So stray from the norm, indulge and make summer squash the star of your summer meal. You deserve it.

Increase in local farmers and markets a sign of the times.

 

by Anne Pyburn Craig

Besides being backbreaking, farming is a huge gamble. Farmers are constantly at the mercy of forces beyond their control. Fortunately for those of us who like to eat, we're blessed with a good-sized handful of folks around here who do it anyway.

The state comptroller's office has the stats to prove it: we are one serious produce-growing region around here. Even relatively thickly settled Orange County is one of New York's top producers of veggies. Ulster County is second in apple production. Need a beverage with that? The region's got 39 wineries.

And in so many ways it shapes our reality. Deborah DeWan, executive director of the Rondout Valley Growers Association, points out that when local farmers do their thing we harvest much more than food.

“Supporting local farming keeps our soil protected and our carbon footprint smaller, and preserves all that lovely open space,” DeWan says. “And between agriculture and agritourism, it's about at the top of the local economy. It's a multiplier. I think that speaks volumes about the soil around here and the people who work it.”

Opportunities to feast on this bounty are abundant at this time of year. Local farm stands are bursting with the fruits of the harvest and the wonders created from them, from baked goods to artisanal cheeses and infused oils. More than a few offer pick-your-own opportunities, corn mazes, and other ways to make your grocery expedition about so much more than simply stocking the fridge.

“I think one of the things that's working is how much people enjoy the experience,” says DeWan. “Whether they go picking and get their hands right on the source, or just visit a stand or market, they feel connected to their food in a way you don't get at a chain store.”

After the trauma experienced when thousands of dollars of carefully nurtured crops were ravaged by Hurricanes Irene and Lee (remember all those floating pumpkins?) it's been a comparatively benevolent season.

“I think the harvest is bountiful this year and we are very fortunate and grateful,” says DeWan. “That said, some of our fruit growers are having a somewhat less stellar season. There was a cold snap last spring after a warm spell, so apple and pear trees were tricked into budding and then froze. The results vary from orchard to orchard; it's a mixed bag. But what is being produced is outstanding. And this is prime apple picking time—go grab your stash while you can whether you pick them yourself or hit a stand.”

Many communities have centralized farm markets where you can partake of the wares of a group of growers in one place. “Farm markets are just exploding,” says DeWan. “I think there is a growing awareness of food safety and the food stream in general and that helps.”

So does the fact that market organizers are a creative lot, bringing in music, art and kids' entertainment. Vibrant markets exist in towns from Woodstock to Marlboro, bringing the growers to the people and the people to the growers, reviving the time-honored concept of the market square with a healthy new twist.

Several farm markets, taking advantage of advances in growing techniques and heightened public interest, keep their farm markets going all year long. “There are new innovations that extend the growing season even here in the Northeast,” DeWan says. “Winter markets are growing accordingly.”

DeWan is especially excited about the newest market, and with good reason. Kingston powers-that-be, and citizens, wrung their hands about what to do with the empty lot created by tearing down a derelict eyesore of a welfare motel, the Kings' Inn, that had blighted Midtown for years. Then the farmers' market folks stepped in.

“Some of our members have been going to the new market in Midtown and they say the community has really responded,” says DeWan. “People can use their SNAP [food stamp] benefits there and purchase good fresh food. That's one of the RVGA's goals, to partner with the various initiatives that work to get food to the underserved. It's an ongoing conversation.”

Vendors offering their wares at the Midtown market, which will be ongoing every Tuesday in October, include: Highland Farm, Perez Market Farm, Rexcroft Farm, Slow Roots Farm, Wright's Farm, Abe's Falafel, Al Andaluz Catering Co., All You Knead Artisan Bakers, Block Factory Tamales, DFC Distributors featuring olive oil, Keegan Ales, and El Donzante Food Truck.

The Midtown market is a spinoff of the hugely successful one that takes over part of the uptown Stockade every Saturday morning. Organizers' pride is showing on their website: “The duration of the Market in its inaugural year was scheduled for four months, June through September. Due to the immediate, overwhelming demand for more time, the Market quickly shifted gears and remained open through October. Now in its eleventh year, the Market opens Memorial Weekend and ends the weekend prior to Thanksgiving to allow people to shop locally for fresh items for the holiday. The Kingston Farmers’ Market began with 12 vendors. The Market now has well over 30 vendors...The Kingston Farmers’ Market hosts from between 1,000 to almost 2,000 visitors weekly.”

A recent innovation is farmiemarket.com, an online service working to build a local presence by signing local growers up for its “virtual market.” Customers can order online and have their orders delivered. Farmiemarket tends, at this point, toward the artisanal and niche products, which command a pretty price.

“It's a double-edged sword,” says DeWan. “The farmers operate on a miniscule margin and need to get a fair price. There are getting to be quite a few online buying clubs and we're all for anything that connects farmer to consumer. At the same time we need to keep local products and healthy organic foods accessible. Eating healthier makes a huge difference in people’s lives.”

The RVGA's website offers a “What's Pickin'” guide that will tell you where to find what you're hankerin' for, whether it is grass-fed beef, hormone-free chicken, the makings of a fruit salad, or this year's Halloween pumpkin.

“We're a small organization—only about 60 members—but incredibly diverse and with the benefit of the outrageously rich Rondout Valley soil,” DeWan says. “One thing that I love is that our membership is so varied. We have family operations like the Schoonmakers, who have been farming for twelve generations, and the Davenports and the Kelders, legacy operations. Then we have new growers, CSAs [community supported agriculture], niche operations who may have been around for ten years or may be just starting. And what is really neat is watching everyone work together sharing knowledge and expertise. The longtime farmers are a great resource for the ones just starting out, and the general attitude is that there's always room for another farm. There's a rising tide, what you might call a cross pollination between the generations—old operations and the new CSAs.

“That's a big piece of what we're about, farmer-to-farmer networking, building the community across all facets of agriculture, bringing farmers together to meet and learn what they have in common and what assets might be complementary. If this tradition is to survive on this fertile soil, we need that kind of cohesion.”

When two of Ulster County's most helpful organizations, the Cornell Cooperative Extension and Family of Woodstock, need dollars, as they very much do in the current economic climate, it is to the farmers that they turn. The first annual Hudson Valley Harvest Festival was held on the third weekend in September at the county fairgrounds, and the new endeavor drew high profile sponsors, top-notch local musicians, and crowds. RVGA was there, of course. “We're very much involved in the Farm to Food Pantry initiative and with Family of Woodstock. We made fresh corn chowder with Rondout Valley corn,” DeWan says.

Advocating for local food and local farms is satisfying work as awareness grows. “People are becoming more tuned-in to where their food comes from, the varieties, the seasonal changes,” DeWan says. “It's wonderful. We are so blessed to live in a breadbasket here, a cornucopia. Everyone should take advantage of it. It helps all of us in so many ways."

Right now the RVGA is raising money to match a $25,000 challenge grant from the New World Foundation; they've got until the end of the year and are hoping the community will maintain the wonderful Ulster County tradition of stepping up. There is a “love farmers” button on their website, rondoutvalleygrowers.org, where you can donate before or after snooping out the “What's Pickin'” page to make your grocery list. “Get to know your farmers,” DeWan advises. “Come out to a market or a farm, volunteer at an event, or just 'like' us on Facebook. Everything helps.”

Hen-of-the-Woods Season

by Maria Reidelbach

Now that the weather is turning cooler the autumn mushrooms will be coming into season. I was about to write “the autumn mushrooms will begin to appear,” but one thing I've learned over the last couple of decades is that mushrooms are not predictable—that's why it's called “mushroom hunting” rather than “mushroom picking.” Although we've had plenty of rain since the spring dry spell, we will just need to wait and see and hunt to see what turns up.

One of my favorite varieties of edible mushroom grows in the autumn. It's easy and safe to identify, even for beginners, and you can find them all over the Hudson Valley—it's a gourmet treat called hen-of-the-woods, also known as maitake and Grifola frondosa.* These delicious mushrooms are polypores, meaning that they have a shelf-like structure with a firm, sponge-like spore-bearing surface on the underside. They're known as hen-of-the-woods because they resemble a fluffy, feathery, brown chicken, although they can be much, much bigger, easily five pounds and up to 20 pounds or more! We're about to get a local maitake farm in Wawarsing, and while cultivated hens are good, they're quite expensive (about $16 a pound). It's a wonderful thing that we can gather the even more delicious wild version at the same time as we're getting exercise and enjoying a walk in the woods.

Here's what to look for: hen-of-the-woods alwaysgrows on the base of big, old oak trees and they will grow year after year on the same tree. I look for large oaks with vertical splits in the bark; they seem more likely to host a hen. You'll have to sharpen your eyes to see these camouflaged fungus—they look at first glance like piles of leaves. The young ones are just bumpy pale brown biscuits, but soon they send out frond-like forms that are shades of brown on the top and off-white underneath.

You'll want to collect hens in this leafed-out stage, but not so big that they've become dried out or very crumbly—the best are firm-to-tender, just a little moist, and have good and mushroomy fragrance. Avoid hens that smell of ammonia, a sign of decay. Also make sure that the mushroom hasn't been splashed or dusted with anything gritty, which will sink right into the fronds as they grow and become impossible to remove. If you have a doubt, you can check for this by chewing a little piece right on the spot.

There are only two lookalikes for the hen-of-the-woods. One is the umbrella polypore (Polyporus umbellatus), which is pale brown, pretty rare, grows on the ground, usually in summer, and is equally delicious. The other is the black-staining polypore (Meripilus sumstinei), which grows on buried wood and stains black. It's not toxic, but is usually too tough to be edible. One more caveat: people taking MAO-inhibitors should avoid all polypores because they contain tyramine.

Hen-of-the-woods can be cooked in many ways, but they do love to be gently cooked in liquid, which brings out their nutty woodiness. To clean them, pick out bits of leaves and twigs (I once had a lizard run out of a particularly large specimen I was cutting up on a countertop!), and then clean with a dry brush or rinse with water if necessary. You can then slice or tear the poufs into separate leaves.

One easy seasonal preparation for hens is to roast them: set your oven to about 400 degrees. Pour a little olive oil in a large baking dish and add a couple of crushed garlic cloves. Put in the pre-heated oven until the garlic sizzles. Remove garlic from the pan, add dry mushrooms and stir, sprinkling generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 10 minutes, turn and roast another 5 to 10 minutes until they are browned and crispy. Serve with additional salt and pepper.

As with all mushrooms, the first time you find hen-of-the-woods, you'll want to confirm your identification by comparing it to several photographs or drawings and descriptions. The first time you eat any new food, have only a small serving to make sure you aren't allergic or sensitive.

*Just to confuse things, there's also an edible fungus called chicken mushroom (Laetiorus sulphureus and L. cincinnatis). It is also a delicious, edible polypore, grows on wood, but it's bright orange, yellow and white. The names for hen-of-the-woods and chicken mushrooms are reversed in some parts of the country—that's why we have botanical names to keep it all straight.

Links:

Join the Mid-Hudson Mycological Association—they're a great group of mushroom enthusiasts of all skill levels, membership is inexpensive, and you have access to expert hunters who are happy to help you learn. Plus they've got an active Facebook page where people post photos of all their finds. www.mushroomthejournal.com/mhma

The Mushroom Expert: Michael Kuo's website. www.mushroomexpert.com

Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, by Elizabeth Schneider, contains one of the best mushroom cookbooks within its covers; she's got great recipes for hen-of-the-woods.

The Complete Mushroom Hunter by Gary Lincoff, author of the Audubon Field Guide to North American Mushrooms, is a wonderful introduction to mushroom hunting, starting with mushrooms you find in your own backyard. The Audubon Guide is the best field guide to have.

Maria Reidelbach is a past president of the New York Mycological Society and a current member of the Mid-Hudson Mycological Association. She has never gotten sick from eating a toxic mushroom.